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Dive watch profile · Released 1967

Doxa SUB — the Cousteau watch.

Orange dial from Le Locle. The dive bezel with US Navy no-decompression scale. Jacques Cousteau's personal watch and the cult favorite of professional and saturation divers.

Doxa SUB Professional orange dialVia Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0 (uploader uncredited) (source)

What is the Doxa SUB?

The Doxa SUB is a dive watch released 1967 by Doxa, a Swiss watchmaker founded 1889 in Le Locle. Best known for the orange "Professional" dial (specified for high underwater visibility in murky water) and the bezel with US Navy no-decompression-stop timing scale. Jacques Cousteau wore the Doxa SUB 300 throughout his ocean exploration career; his expedition company US Divers (Aqua-Lung) distributed the Doxa SUB in the United States starting 1968. Modern production: SUB 300T Professional ($1,990), SUB 600T Pacific ($2,290), SUB 1500T Conquistador ($2,890), SUB 200 ($990 quartz).

The Cousteau provenance

Jacques Cousteau wore the Doxa SUB 300 throughout his expedition years (late 1960s through the 1990s). Cousteau was personally involved in early discussions about the watch's specifications during 1966–1967 development, alongside Doxa engineer Urs Eschle and watchmaker Urs Otto Schild. The collaboration with Cousteau came through US Divers (Aqua-Lung) — the dive-equipment manufacturer Cousteau co-founded in the early 1950s and that he ran as CEO through the 1960s. US Divers needed a watch to bundle with their regulators and dive equipment; Doxa needed access to the American dive market. The partnership ran from 1968 through approximately 1980.

The Cousteau-era Doxa packaging included "Aqua-Lung Sharkhunter" co-branding on the dial (specifically on the Sharkhunter black-dial variant distributed through US Divers retail channels), with cosignatures of both brands. Vintage Aqua-Lung Sharkhunter examples are particularly collectable today — more so than the standard Doxa-only Sharkhunters of the same era. Cousteau's personal Doxa SUB 300, plus the prototype models from the development period, are held at the Doxa museum in Le Locle and at the Cousteau Society archives.

Cousteau's endorsement, plus the US Divers distribution, made Doxa the unofficial watch of professional saturation diving in the late 1960s and 1970s. When the saturation-diving boom drove watch demand among commercial divers (US Navy, oil-rig contractors, North Sea offshore work), Doxa SUB 600T and SUB 1500T references with helium escape valves were the watches divers actually wore on the job, alongside the Rolex Sea-Dweller. The cult-favorite status Doxa enjoys today among dive-watch enthusiasts traces directly to that era.

The orange dial — you can see it from the bottom of the lagoon. That's the only color a watch should be.

Jacques Cousteau on the Doxa SUB, undated archive interview

The 1967 SUB 300

The Doxa SUB 300 launched in 1967 as a 42mm cushion-case dive watch with three dial-color variants: Professional (orange), Searambler (silver), and Sharkhunter (black). Reference numbers 11899-1, 11899-2, 11899-3 across the three colors. Specifications: 300m water resistance, AS 1701 movement (Adolph Schild Caliber 1701, a Swiss workhorse used across multiple low-volume Swiss makers in the 1960s), screw-down crown at 4 o'clock (an unusual position chosen to avoid wrist-bone impingement during diving), and the no-decompression dive bezel.

The watch's development was driven by three priorities: high underwater visibility (the orange dial), functional dive-time and depth-time calculation (the no-decompression bezel), and ergonomic comfort during extended diving (the cushion case and 4-o'clock crown). Each priority was tested with actual divers — US Navy combat divers, Cousteau's research crew, US Divers dive shop owners — during the 1966–1967 development period. The result was a watch that genuinely worked underwater and that established a design language Doxa has preserved across every subsequent SUB reference for 60 years.

Doxa — SUB 300 collection
Image courtesy of Doxa Watches (source)

The no-decompression bezel

The Doxa SUB bezel features a unique no-decompression-stop scale — overlaying the standard 60-minute timing scale with US Navy dive table depth indicators. Each colored band on the bezel corresponds to a maximum no-decompression bottom time at a given depth. The scale runs (approximately) 60 minutes at 30 feet, 50 minutes at 40 feet, 40 minutes at 50 feet, 25 minutes at 60 feet, 15 minutes at 70 feet, 10 minutes at 80 feet, 8 minutes at 90 feet, and 5 minutes at 100 feet — the depth-time limits beyond which a diver requires decompression stops on ascent.

In actual use: a diver descends, rotates the bezel to align the minute hand with the start of the dive, and then reads both elapsed dive time and remaining no-decompression time directly from the bezel without consulting a dive computer or dive tables. The scale is conservative — it follows the more conservative side of US Navy dive tables — and is intended as a safety check against modern dive computers rather than a primary timing reference. Modern recreational divers carry dive computers that perform the calculation more precisely, but the Doxa bezel remains the most-distinctive functional bezel in horology.

Reference history

  • SUB 300 (1967–1969) — Original 42mm cushion-case Doxa. Three dial colors (Professional / Searambler / Sharkhunter). 300m water resistance. AS 1701 movement.
  • SUB 300T (1969–1972)— Updated 42.5mm case with helium escape valve added at 9 o'clock for saturation-diving compatibility. 300m water resistance, Caliber AS 1701 / 2783.
  • SUB 250T Sharkhunter Aqua-Lung (1968–early 1970s) — Co-branded edition for US Divers / Aqua-Lung. The most-collectable vintage Doxa reference today.
  • SUB 600T Conquistador (1970s) — 600m water resistance variant for commercial saturation diving. Larger case dimensions.
  • SUB 1000T (1980s) — 1,000m water resistance. The Jenny-era Doxa.
  • SUB 750T / 4000T (early 2000s) — Modern revival references. Reintroduced the original Doxa SUB design language after the dormant 1990s.
  • SUB 300T Professional / SUB 1500T Conquistador (2010s–present) — Current production. Multiple case sizes (40mm, 42.5mm, 45mm) across the range, all preserving the original 1967 design language.
  • SUB 300 Carbon (2020s) — Carbon-composite case. The experimental modern Doxa for buyers who want lighter wrist weight.
  • SUB 200 (2018–present) — Quartz-movement entry-level Doxa. The most-accessible Doxa at $990.
Doxa — SUB 600T collection
Image courtesy of Doxa Watches (source)

Modern collection

  • Doxa SUB 300T Professional ($1,990) — 42.5mm steel, orange dial, helium escape valve, 1,200m water resistance, ETA 2824-2 base. The reference Doxa and the most-recommended entry to the brand.
  • Doxa SUB 300T Searambler ($1,990) — Silver-dial variant of the SUB 300T. Quieter aesthetic than the orange Professional.
  • Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter ($1,990) — Black-dial variant. The most-traditional dive-watch aesthetic in the SUB 300T range.
  • Doxa SUB 300 (no T, $2,290) — Smaller 42mm case (vs 42.5mm of SUB 300T). 300m water resistance without helium escape valve.
  • Doxa SUB 600T Pacific ($2,290) — 600m water resistance, larger 45mm case, the modern saturation-diving variant.
  • Doxa SUB 1500T Conquistador ($2,890) — 1,500m water resistance. The professional saturation-diving Doxa.
  • Doxa SUB 200 ($990)— Quartz movement, full Doxa aesthetic at the lowest price point. The most-recommended "Doxa entry" for buyers who want the orange dial and no-decompression bezel without the mechanical-watch service interval.
  • Doxa SUB 300 Carbon ($2,890) — Carbon-composite case, lighter modern variant. Carbon is significantly lighter than steel — useful for active recreational diving.

Why Doxa is collected

Doxa occupies a specific position in modern dive-watch culture: cult favorite of professional and saturation divers, distinct visual signature (the orange dial), historical provenance (Cousteau, US Divers, US Navy), and pricing meaningfully below Submariner / Seamaster equivalents. For buyers who want a dive watch with serious historical pedigree at $2,000–$3,000, Doxa is the most-defensible answer in the category.

The brand is smaller than the Swiss giants — Doxa produces a few thousand watches per year vs Rolex's 1,000,000+ and Omega's 600,000 — but has retained its dive-watch identity throughout its modern existence. Where Tag Heuer, IWC, and even Omega have diversified across categories (chronograph, dress, pilot), Doxa has remained primarily a dive-watch maker. The category-focus is part of the brand's appeal: a Doxa SUB is a dive watch made by a company that makes dive watches, not by a luxury house with a dive watch in its catalog.

For comparable dive references at adjacent price points:

For the dive-watch category context:

Frequently Asked

On the Doxa SUB

Why does Cousteau's name come up with Doxa?

Jacques Cousteau wore the Doxa SUB 300 (released 1967) extensively during his ocean exploration work. Cousteau was personally involved in early discussions about the watch's specifications during 1966–1967 development, alongside Doxa engineer Urs Eschle. Cousteau's ocean expedition company US Divers (Aqua-Lung) distributed the Doxa SUB in the United States starting in 1968 — Doxa was the only watch the company endorsed for diving. Cousteau's personal Doxa is on display at the Doxa museum in Le Locle. The orange dial, originally specified by Doxa for high underwater visibility, became Doxa's signature aesthetic and remains the canonical Doxa color.

What is the Doxa orange dial called?

The orange-dial Doxa is called the "Professional" — the original 1967 reference and still the Doxa signature. Doxa's color taxonomy: Professional (orange), Searambler (silver), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (blue), Aquamarine (turquoise blue), Divingstar (yellow). The Professional orange is the most iconic and was specified for high visibility in murky tropical water — the same color logic that puts orange on diving fins, life-jackets, and emergency-signal devices. The Searambler silver and Sharkhunter black variants are the second-most-popular and provide alternatives for buyers who don't want the orange.

What is unique about the Doxa bezel?

The Doxa SUB bezel features a no-decompression-stop scale based on US Navy dive tables — overlaying the standard 60-minute timing scale with depth indicators showing the maximum no-decompression stay time at various depths. Each colored band on the bezel corresponds to a maximum bottom time at a given depth. A diver rotates the bezel to align the minute hand with the start of the dive, then reads both elapsed time and the depth-time limit directly without consulting tables. The scale is functional rather than decorative and was developed in collaboration with US Navy combat divers in 1967. The bezel design has been preserved across every Doxa SUB reference since — a continuity rivaled only by the Submariner and Seamaster.

Is Doxa Swiss-made?

Yes — Doxa is headquartered in Le Locle, Switzerland, where it has operated since 1889. The brand was founded by Georges Ducommun (no relation to the Ducommun family of cabinet-makers) and has remained Swiss-made throughout its history. Doxa was acquired by the Jenny family (the Aubry-Jenny watchmaking family of Le Locle) in 1980 and has been under that family's ownership through multiple corporate restructurings since. The brand briefly produced quartz watches during the quartz crisis but has returned to mechanical-only production in the modern era. Movements are sourced from ETA / Sellita with Doxa-specific modifications and finishing.

Which Doxa SUB should I buy?

Doxa SUB 300T Professional ($1,990) is the canonical Doxa — orange dial, 42.5mm steel case, helium escape valve, 1,200m water resistance, ETA 2824-2 base. The Sub 300 (no T, $2,290) is the smaller-case 42mm version of the same watch. The SUB 600T Pacific ($2,290) brings 600m water resistance with a more modern case design. The SUB 1500T Conquistador ($2,890) is the saturation-diving variant at 1,500m water resistance. The SUB 200 ($990) is the entry-level Doxa with quartz movement at a third the price of mechanical references and full Doxa aesthetic. For most buyers, the SUB 300T Professional is the recommended entry — the canonical Doxa, the most-recognized variant, and the watch that established the modern Doxa identity.

How does the Doxa SUB compare to the Submariner or Seamaster?

Different propositions at significantly different prices. The Doxa SUB 300T ($1,990) sits at one-fifth to one-third of Submariner ($9,200) or Seamaster Diver 300M ($5,500) pricing. Mechanically, the Doxa uses ETA 2824-2 base (the same Swiss workhorse used in many Tudor, Tag Heuer, and Hamilton references); the Submariner uses Rolex's in-house Caliber 3230; the Seamaster uses Omega's Master Chronometer Caliber 8800. The Submariner and Seamaster are objectively more sophisticated mechanically. The Doxa wins on distinctiveness — orange dial, no-decompression bezel, Cousteau provenance — and on the cultural-identity factor for buyers who specifically want a non-mainstream dive watch. Most Doxa buyers cross-shop with the Tudor Black Bay 58 ($3,950) and the Oris Aquis ($2,500–$3,200) rather than with the Submariner.

What is the Doxa SUB?

The Doxa SUB is a dive watch released 1967 by Doxa, a Swiss watchmaker founded 1889 in Le Locle. Best known for the orange 'Professional' dial and the bezel with US Navy no-decompression timing scale. Jacques Cousteau wore the SUB 300 throughout his expedition career. Modern production: SUB 300T Professional ($1,990).

Why does Cousteau's name come up with Doxa?

Jacques Cousteau wore the Doxa SUB 300 (released 1967) extensively during his ocean exploration work. Cousteau was personally involved in early discussions about the watch's specifications during 1966–1967 development, alongside Doxa engineer Urs Eschle. Cousteau's ocean expedition company US Divers (Aqua-Lung) distributed the Doxa SUB in the United States starting in 1968 — Doxa was the only watch the company endorsed for diving. Cousteau's personal Doxa is on display at the Doxa museum in Le Locle. The orange dial, originally specified by Doxa for high underwater visibility, became Doxa's signature aesthetic and remains the canonical Doxa color.

What is the Doxa orange dial called?

The orange-dial Doxa is called the "Professional" — the original 1967 reference and still the Doxa signature. Doxa's color taxonomy: Professional (orange), Searambler (silver), Sharkhunter (black), Caribbean (blue), Aquamarine (turquoise blue), Divingstar (yellow). The Professional orange is the most iconic and was specified for high visibility in murky tropical water — the same color logic that puts orange on diving fins, life-jackets, and emergency-signal devices. The Searambler silver and Sharkhunter black variants are the second-most-popular and provide alternatives for buyers who don't want the orange.

What is unique about the Doxa bezel?

The Doxa SUB bezel features a no-decompression-stop scale based on US Navy dive tables — overlaying the standard 60-minute timing scale with depth indicators showing the maximum no-decompression stay time at various depths. Each colored band on the bezel corresponds to a maximum bottom time at a given depth. A diver rotates the bezel to align the minute hand with the start of the dive, then reads both elapsed time and the depth-time limit directly without consulting tables. The scale is functional rather than decorative and was developed in collaboration with US Navy combat divers in 1967. The bezel design has been preserved across every Doxa SUB reference since — a continuity rivaled only by the Submariner and Seamaster.

Is Doxa Swiss-made?

Yes — Doxa is headquartered in Le Locle, Switzerland, where it has operated since 1889. The brand was founded by Georges Ducommun (no relation to the Ducommun family of cabinet-makers) and has remained Swiss-made throughout its history. Doxa was acquired by the Jenny family (the Aubry-Jenny watchmaking family of Le Locle) in 1980 and has been under that family's ownership through multiple corporate restructurings since. The brand briefly produced quartz watches during the quartz crisis but has returned to mechanical-only production in the modern era. Movements are sourced from ETA / Sellita with Doxa-specific modifications and finishing.

Which Doxa SUB should I buy?

Doxa SUB 300T Professional ($1,990) is the canonical Doxa — orange dial, 42.5mm steel case, helium escape valve, 1,200m water resistance, ETA 2824-2 base. The Sub 300 (no T, $2,290) is the smaller-case 42mm version of the same watch. The SUB 600T Pacific ($2,290) brings 600m water resistance with a more modern case design. The SUB 1500T Conquistador ($2,890) is the saturation-diving variant at 1,500m water resistance. The SUB 200 ($990) is the entry-level Doxa with quartz movement at a third the price of mechanical references and full Doxa aesthetic. For most buyers, the SUB 300T Professional is the recommended entry — the canonical Doxa, the most-recognized variant, and the watch that established the modern Doxa identity.

How does the Doxa SUB compare to the Submariner or Seamaster?

Different propositions at significantly different prices. The Doxa SUB 300T ($1,990) sits at one-fifth to one-third of Submariner ($9,200) or Seamaster Diver 300M ($5,500) pricing. Mechanically, the Doxa uses ETA 2824-2 base (the same Swiss workhorse used in many Tudor, Tag Heuer, and Hamilton references); the Submariner uses Rolex's in-house Caliber 3230; the Seamaster uses Omega's Master Chronometer Caliber 8800. The Submariner and Seamaster are objectively more sophisticated mechanically. The Doxa wins on distinctiveness — orange dial, no-decompression bezel, Cousteau provenance — and on the cultural-identity factor for buyers who specifically want a non-mainstream dive watch. Most Doxa buyers cross-shop with the Tudor Black Bay 58 ($3,950) and the Oris Aquis ($2,500–$3,200) rather than with the Submariner.

What is Subdial?

Subdial is an editorial publication covering luxury watchmaking — Swiss heritage houses, dive watches, vintage timepieces, and the makers worth knowing. Coverage includes Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, Tudor, and dozens more. Editorial focus: history, signature collections, what to look for when buying, and how value holds.

Which Swiss watch brands are the most prestigious?

The "Holy Trinity" of Swiss watchmaking is Patek Philippe (founded 1839), Audemars Piguet (1875), and Vacheron Constantin (1755) — the three houses widely considered the apex of haute horlogerie. Rolex is the most recognized worldwide; Jaeger-LeCoultre supplies movements to many top brands; Blancpain is the oldest continuously operating watchmaker (founded 1735). Independent makers like F.P. Journe and Richard Mille operate at the same tier with smaller production runs.

What makes a watch "Swiss made"?

Swiss law requires that a watch labeled "Swiss made" must have its movement assembled in Switzerland, its movement cased in Switzerland, undergone final inspection by the manufacturer in Switzerland, and have at least 60% of its production cost incurred in Switzerland. The standard is enforced by the Federal Council and the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH.